Custom, Handmade Stained Glass Art
Specializing in original designs. Created using the Tiffany Method with copper foil and solder.
Specializing in original designs. Created using the Tiffany Method with copper foil and solder.
See this in the shop at: bdglassdesigns.etsy.com
An original design, when I sketched it out, I had no idea if it would work. And.....This piece turned out way better than I had imagined! At 11.5 inches long, body depth of 3.25 inches, and an impressive wingspan of 15.5 inches wide. It was mostly an experiment to see if I could do it.
A lot of the challenge was designing and building it in a way that will support the weight of the tail and wings. The copper foil and solder alone are not strong enough to support that weight. Normally I would add a thick copper strip called "Copper Re-Strip" to add support. But the shape of this doesn't allow for that. So.... to solve my problem I used a wire frame of tinned copper wire.
After all the pieces were cut, ground, and foiled, I began the soldering and framing process. I soldered the tail first and included a tinned copper wire between the tail glass that extends 3 inches beyond the glass itself. Then I built and soldered the left wing and included a wire in-between the feathers and wing body that extended for 7 inches out the wing where it attaches to the body. Puzzled yet? I was too on whether this would work.
I soldered the upper portion of the main body and ran the wire through the body where the wing attaches. I had half a bird body and one wing with a wing wire now extended from the body right where the other wing needed to be. So I then built the right wing around the wire attaching it directly to the body. Then it was time to attach the tail, running the tail wire between the finished upper body section and the newly attached lower body. I finished up by attaching the beak. which was fragile enough to need a support wire that runs down the crest of the head, onto the beak itself to provide reinforcement.
Phew. I was pleased it held together and was stronger than I anticipated. I gave it a good cleaning to remove the flux, added some patina, and gave it a good wax and shine. I also attached a wire for easy hanging.
This turned out so much better than I anticipated. I was expected to have a little experiment, and if it failed, add it to the pile of glass scrap. But I learned that I can do 3D art. And with a little problem solving, it can turn out beyond what I expect.
See this in the shop at: bdglassdesigns.etsy.com
Custom original design, 13.25 x 13 inch round stained glass pirate ship panel. My design was for a wooden ship cutting through the waters under a moonlit dark purple hazy sky. Originally I had stormy skies and lightning, but after breaking the glass from it being so thin, I changed the design and really like what it became. The colors include cream/amber sails, dark purple streak sky, deep blue ocean and light blue ship wake. The flag is a dark purple/black spotted glass and the moon is a unique yellow spotted glass.
This is actual authentic stained glass, not a glass or a acrylic sheet with a picture on it. It is sometimes frustrating when people sell "stained glass" but it really is just a digital picture stuck to a glass panel. I think in some ways it cheapens the meaning of stained glass. Real stained glass is a complex and time consuming process.
To make my stained glass, I use theTiffany method with copper foil and solder. Every piece hand cut, foiled, and then soldered. As a custom designed handmade piece of art, and due to the artisanal nature of this work, slight variations in solder lines, including tiny bubbles, subtle tool marks, or minor imperfections in the glass edges and soldering are natural and part of the handmade process. — they add unique character to each one of a kind creation. To care for this piece and keep it shining, I suggest cleaning it with pledge furniture polish.
After patterns are designed on an Ipad, they are printed on vinyl. The vinyl is attached to sheets of colored glass, which is then cut in the shape of the vinyl with a glass scoring tool. Then, round or grozing pliers seperate the glass on the scores.
The glass is then ran through a diamond bit grinder to create smooth edges and ensure the pieces fit together correctly. The grinding process will remove sharp edges and can also fix small errors in the cutting process. (It makes quite a mess!)
Each glass piece is meticulously wrapped in copper foil. Solder will not stick to stained glass. Copper foil allows the solder to hold the glass together. After the foil is added, each piece is burnished to remove any wrinkles or bumps in the foil.
The glass is soldered using a Tin/Lead solder at 410° C. After both sides get soldered, and the outer edge gets either tinned and beaded or metal came is added. The piece is then cleaned of flux, patina is added, and it is waxed and polished.
These are a great way to use some of the extra scrap pieces that I have acculated. The scrap glass really adds up! I am happy to make you one too if you would like. They are simple and very inexpensive. And they are really fun for Christmas time. I am not listing them on my shop. If you would like one, send me an email with the colors you would be interested in and I will get back to you with the cost.
Email: scraptree@bdglassdesigns.com